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Words you should always never say-always and never.

Great talk and explanation of fertilizer.

Congratulations to you

Ammonia and Urea will raise the pH

My lawn in Germany is about 200 square meters. I noticed a small patch of grass one early Spring that did not look like the rest of the lawn. It was about one square meter in diameter, but I ignored it for most of the year. I didn't know what it was, but by the time I found out later in the year, the patch had grown to about 45 square meters. The landscaping company I used to build my lawn confirmed it was quackgrass and gave me three options. The first was learn to love quackgrass, as it will spread without bounds and eventually take over my lawn. Given the speed in which it expanded in the first year, I did not doubt it would eventually overtake my lawn. The second option was several applications of non-selective herbicide over several months to make sure it was really dead. Then overseed and hope for the best. There are several non-selective herbicides available for professional use, including glyphosate-based products. The third option was to remove about 60 square meters of soil to a depth of about 30cm. The excavation was slow near the known boundaries because the workers had to inspect for rhizome propogation. The excavation extended about one meter beyond the last confirmed rhizome. Then backfill with clean topsoil and sow new seed. I went with the third option. Removing the soil was the only way to ensure all of the rhizomes were gone and the plant would not return. It's been four years, and I have not seen a single blade of quackgrass in my lawn. However, if I do see some, I will spot treat the leaves with glyphosate.

Good thoughts. I started a good sized vegetable garden from scratch almost 3 years ago. I was immediately challenged with needing 30+ yards of good compost! That’s rather a lot! A local organic dairy sells awesome compost at $112/yard. Expensive right? Then to till or not till is an issue. Not tilling suggests that huge quantity of great compost over the top of thick sod. I opted for several things with good apparent success. 1. I learned how to make 6-8 yard piles of my own compost. My ideal recipe: 15%: I got very fresh cow poop from the local organic dairy. $50/yard, but they are generous. Cow manure is best for hotter compost because they’re ruminants with more stomachs with more bacteria. I’ve seen it get up to 160F. 130F minimum is needed to kill pathogens and weed seeds. 30% wood chips (I’m in a forested area so they are available and I invested in a serious chipper for my small tractor 🚜). 20% brown (carbon) plant materials. Organic rice straw is good. Include spent coffee grounds from local coffee shops. 25% green plant waste. Alfalfa is useful but it can usually contain roundup or other herbicides (bad). Check it. The remainder is biochar, around 10%. 2. Since I’m 70 and don’t want to wait 5-10 years to go no-till I tilled up the thick sod with my tractor and tiller. Then I tilled in the organic material from the sod, as much compost as I could make and as much as I could afford. As a comment, the soils and compost was VERY nitrogen heavy. So this year I’m tilling in bone meal for “P” and Langbeinite for “K”. So I opted for a balance focused on getting the most possible compost into the soil as quickly as possible with the least physical hard labor on my 70-year old body. So far that has worked well but there are fine-tunings for each season. This year I have to deal with the massive weeds that also enjoy the better soil, so I’m trying weed fabric around perennials like berries and organic rice straw everywhere else.

Good information, but I wish he had also addressed vinegar. I have very sandy, alkaline soil (8), which killed my blueberries. Before I plant again, I think I will add sulphur, but also jump start it with vinegar.

All these problems you bring up can be avoided with regular mulch maintenance every 3 years or so. Pull up all the mulch and replace it, or clean out the organic matter and put it back. Maybe do some power washing

A lot of very good points here. I Inherited a lot of unused weed fabric from someone. The way i use it is in autumn i put down manure and leftover plant material from the growing season. Then cover it over winter with the weed fabric. In early spring i remove the fabric for about 3 weeks, apply home made compost and amend the soil. I then put the weed fabric back down and cover that with a light cover of mulch. Either collected shredded leaves from autumn or bark chips. when the growing season is over its a must to lift the fabric off. Use the mulch that was on top of it for my brown material on compost heap and start over again. I feel it can be useful when starting out but make sure you do NOT bury it and most importantly move it a couple of times a year. Also i only found this necessary for the first 4 years to get rid of very stubborn perennials like bind weed, creeping thistle and horse tail. Now i really only use it to cover in winter.

People gardened for thousands of years without plastic. I’ve never had a garden that used it. It’s just not that much work to weed a garden, just stop being lazy.

Wowww thank you so much I learned lot 😊

So, being an from a place with really hot summers. They are good for summer months and then get them out. Need as much oxygen during the day as we can get lol.

Thank you

This is a really useful video. I have wondered for years why we shouldn't just freeze the seed to stratify, i.e. the more cold the better. Now I know why the 'fridge is the perfect temperature. Just good advice here coming from experience.

My potting compost begins life as 50% home made compost & 50% cheap commercial 'potting compost'. This mix is then used to grow determinate potatoes in 30 litre tubs, with a couple of handful's of blood, fish & bone meal. When I harvest the potatoes, the compost is then sieved through a 10mm mesh to remove larger pieces. What's left give significantly better results for sowing seeds, potting on & houseplants, needing no additional fertiliser for at least two months.

I’ve used Glyphosate (Roundup/ RT3) in a hundred gallon tank mix on a daily basis at work for the past 10 years with zero side effects. It IS very safe.

$15 right now on Amazon, Nisaku NJP650 The Original Hori Hori Namibagata

I took the sides off my beds, levelled everything & saw a huge decrease in slug & millipede damage. I also saw an increase in yield from brassicas, as their relatively shallow roots then had access to the soil under the (wood chip) paths.

I absolutely guarantee my soil has more than enough microbes, without throwing $$$ at buying tests. How do I know? Simple; the produce coming off my vegetable plot has increased year on year since I significantly upped my production of compost. Fungal activity's way up since I went 'no till' 5 years ago too.

Hi and thank you. In Temperate coastalish Australia, I have found our vegies and in general, sometimes need to be protected from the intense heat which has been happening in Summer, even into Autumn or from Spring. However depends on the plant; listen to the plant. As a trained hort person, I think the horticulture industry here is moving away from full sun recommendations to partial shade "clues" Bout time.

Soil that is dominated by fungi, especially mycorrhizal fungi, will naturally be more acidic than soils that are dominated by bacteria, which tend to be more alkaline. You can actually produce fungi-dominated compost that will naturally lower pH, all without out chemicals.

Why are people that’s using dawn dish liquid saying it killed the bugs and not their plants.. if it kills plants why are so many happy with it😊

Good video. Good application of the scientific method. But there is still one question that needs to be explored. Does weed tea work? If it does, and it's not due to the nutrient content, then that should be explored. I am not going to do that. I'll leave that to younger people with more energy and strength to determine.

Thanks 🙏

Im gonna use your link! ❤

I have tried vitually every one of these myths, and each and every time, PROVEN how right you are, Mr. Pavlis. I have also read your book on conposting and highly recommend it! I am still reading "Olant Science" and then onto the "Science of Microbes.""

Compost tea will add some nutrients to soil. Does it do much more than adding compost or mulch? I suspect its marginal at best. Go mulch/compost. Did I say Mulch???

You are slaying a pop icon here. Humic Acid additives makes money for the manufacturer nothing more. "But bro i added it to one raised bed, watered and fertelized and it worked wonders." Compost/amend your garden yearly to keep your soil cycle going and save your save your money on humic acid...

Wow, thank you so much for putting that on

My citrus scale insects are bright orange. 3 or more times a year, I have to sponge them off with soapy water using a washing-up scourer. It takes about 2hrs. I could try the baby oil thing, but it's a tree, not a little houseplant !

I LOVE my Hori Hori knife!!!

This is an old vid, but I’ve seen some of your newer ones…I experienced bottom end rot. I knew there is enough calcium I’ve often hear you need calcium if that happens. Well I remembered what you said. TO MUCH WATER ran through my head. You were right, I over watered. Since I have paid more attention to my watering I have not had that problem.

Finally. Someone with some really great knowledge that makes sense to Me. I’ve been struggling with some issues on NPK. and after watching ur videos I understand. Good lord there’s a lot of Nonsense. But you have a lot to share. That works. So thanks for clarifying so many issues for me. Happy Gardening

Such great help! Thank you very much! Great content in this channel❤

I appreciate the science, thank you. I'm going home after work and kicking over the two weed tea buckets I just started that smell God-awful.

My compost pile is loaded with vegetable scraps and daily doses of chicken manure from my chicken yard. I had purchased 60 night crawlers from the local bait shop, but the soil became so physically hot, I think all the Worms either died or left. I’ve been using mixtures of the compost with native top soil when planting fruit bushes such as blueberries, blackberries and figs. Second year blueberries and first year blackberries have done good. The fig trees suck.

Human

Zero

I used the product once. NEVER again. Weeds will grow through and after a few years it is extremely difficult to remove because of the roots from shrubs and weeds.

Thanks

This guy is just another tool for the propaganda they put out. Coming at you calm and with so called facts. Ya, the devil used smooth friendly talk in the Garden of Eden too. Everything done to things we put in our bodies since the 70's has been manipulated to make most of the population sick. He says they started this back after ww2. So all your experiments is not working, unlesd its purpose was to harm people.

It is one thing when nature does it. It is another thing when man does it to play god. This video is all about making those playing god to sound justified to the rest of us.

I went through so many phases based on RUclips living soil videos, including compost tea. After a decade of intense gardening (just a very large garden), I've found that laying good compost, always leaving the plant roots in the ground, and not tilling have been most beneficial. Plant root structure is the key, so if you start indoors like I do, make sure you use soil blocks that air-prune, and get them in the ground before the roots spread to other blocks or coil in your container. You don't want coiled or damaged roots. Direct sowing is best but comes with other complications. Most of not all root issues from indoor growing can be mitigated by proper timing and care. Don't overcomplicate it, and don't go spending a fortune on soil potions.

Thanks. I've been considering getting an electric sharpener but didn't know how it would work on various blades. You brought me back to the simplicity of basics, but I'm only halfway through the video. As a kid I used to find a stone to sharpen my penknife on.

Wouldnt calcium bicarbonate be better?

How much microbe activity is going on in a 20 gallon tub? I have a mandarin tree in it and the soil PH is always high from hose water(about 8 ).Thanks

Quack grass responds to something in the Scotts turf builder triple action seed starter by yellowing any emerging shoots of regrowth from roots and runners to a white anemic looking tenderized shoots that slow or stop their competiveness Especially when pulled after a couple weeks of yellowed regrowth attempts

Sick and tired of being at the mercy of ideologies who think not mowing the lawn for a month is going to create biodiversity and save the planet. Since they introduced this ideal in my area my hay fever has become intolerable. It's making me seriously sick I can't go outside or even have my windows open.

i feed the soil and it does the rest perfectly

Don't use chemicals ever.